Today was a shooting day for unit 7's final outcome. I brought several garments that I made for part3. It was really heavy and I thought I need stronger muscle to carry things. I realised that fashion field need not only talent but also healthy body and mind. Also, fashion industry is always tightly scheduled so I need to be very prompt. Being on time is always important.
It was quiet hard for me to finish the garment on time. I put most of time making samples and experiments. I like delicate details like applique, embroidery but this kind of things take a lot of time. I should manage my time well next time. And I should allocate more time on making final piece to make satisfying quality garment. If I had more time I probably make more tassels and tulles to make bottom part of the dress bigger and abundant.
13/04/18 - A2 sheet plan
My tutor (Alice) told me to make at least 8 pages of A2 sheets.
So, I draw some A2 sheets plan including what I have to put inside this portfolio sheet.
Hard print out
-Action plan schedule (unit 7 docu)
-Extended bibliography (unit 7 docu)
Exhibition 75 words
Harrods project brief
Na Ryun Kim
This project originally start from Harrods greenman. I focused on door and door handle, since the fist contact occurs with the doorman and customers. My initial research was started from the image of harrods building made of jelly. I found it interesting and I want to change the usual material of "key, lock and door handle" to something soft and flexible, not just metal.
I made samples with jelly, candy but it was difficult to preserve so i used fabric instead. I used emboridery, appliqué and quilting to express my idea.
I want to give a joyful experience to customer and greenman by changing a fixed idea. I applied this idea to my final piece.
NA RYUN KIM / KIM17517665
* How has my research influenced and shaped my project outcome?
My reseach gave my first starting point and inspiration for "subverting functions".
It gave me the overall idea of my project. From my primary research image of "Harrods building made of jelly" inspired me a lot. So I did experiment with jelly to make key. I want to change hard (usually metal) thing to soft material. I mainly focused on showing my idea visually. I want to make my project clearly understandable. So I tried to think of a flow of the project. Every stage and process is link to each other.
* If I could start my project again, what would I do differently and how would I go about it? Broad out little bit might help my project more spectacular. Maybe I can apply different techniques to make garment. For example, pleating, drawstrings, gathering, more structural silhouette with wire. Research is the key element for design. I want to research more about Wes Anderson's movie and extract some elements from it. I would put more time on final piece because I want to add more details. Applique took more time than I expected.
* What is the most successful and what is the least successful aspect of my project? What are my strengths and weaknesses? The most successful aspect of my project is that I can see the theme clearly. The "key" is a noticeable element of my project. I wanted to show the links(connections) with my research. One of my goal for this project was easy to understand for people who see my work. My weakness is time management. Making garment was time consuming. It took longer than I expected. Also, I made too tight plan which was hard to carry on. I missed time table tutorial and regreting it. Next time, I will make my plan looser and calculate time precisely.
* Assuming I have achieved my intended outcomes, could I now take these concepts and ideas further if I had more time? If so, in which way? I almost achieved my intended outcome now. However if I had more time I would make plentiful tassels and attach it on the skirt to make structural shape and volume.
* Looking back on my projects, are there additional research, development or design outcomes I could have come up with to improve my submission? For the research I found some books of pattern making in csm library. I realized that knowing pattern is important while making garment. Also, I made some accessories in addition to garment. I want to add more accessories such as huge hat, gloves to my styling.
* How well did I organize myself and manage my time during this project? I made action plan and try to follow it. However, during the Easter Holliday, some plans have changed. I spend more time on sketchbook than I planned and didn't finish the garment. Actually, I tried to make the garment for my own (personal) project which was "Korean grandma project". I bought some vintage clothes and tried to reform it but it was not successful. So I change my plan to just continue my Harrods project instead. It was quiet time consuming. Maybe I can go back (revisit) to my work later if I have time.
08/04/18 - 09/04/18
I made that huge key accessory today.
I draw pattern on fabric and cut it out. I saw with white stitches.
I put toy fillings inside the key.
It took 3-4 hours to make it.
The most difficult part was to sew curved lines since there were so many curves.
And it was hard to maintain the shape only with toy fillings
Maybe I should to put some wire inside the key if I make it again
Actually, I wanted to make that key like a bag but it was too narrow for the width.
Next time I want to make that huge key with PVC.
In that way, I can see the stuffs inside because it is transparent
I made some keys with felt fabric.
How to make :
1. Draw the key I want to replicate on thick paper
2. Cut the paper key out
3. Draw the key using paper key on the fabric with white pen
4. Cut the felt key out
It took nearly 3 hours to draw all the key and cut out completely.
Even though I was exhausted during making this, I quiet liked it.
During cutting out this key, I found some interesting shapes and silhouette.
Not only key shape but also inner part of key was interesting too.
It looks very organic shape, somewhat looks like cloud.
So I kept those inner part of the keys to make big pattern for garment.
This kind of things just found by chance. I didn't intend to use them but accidently using it.
I'm going to attach those felt keys to organza ( see through) fabric by using applique technique.
Appliqué is ornamental needlework in which pieces of fabric in different shapes and patterns are sewn or stuck onto a larger piece to form a picture or pattern. It it commonly used as decoration, especially on garments. The technique is accomplished either by hand or machine.
So I saw some youtubes about how to do applique and it was very helpful.
06/04/18 4D support
(Dilemma, Dialogue, Decide, Design)
Design : I should make small keys to bigger size(scale). It will be interesting if I make key shape shoulder pads or any other element for garment which looks like a key. Also, as my textile sample is inspired by tessels, I want to make my own style of tessles. For instance, combining several tessels into one tessel or make a huge size of tessel and attach it to the skirt detail. Maybe It will be fun if I extract the shape of tessel or key and make the garment. I can use their shape to create pattern design.
Dialogue : I am trying to draw some designs for my outcome and It quiet hard to draw design development. My partner advice me to look up for existing designer like Comme Des Garcon. Their design is stuctural and experimental, which is always inspiring. I especially liked about the texture and material they used for this upcoming season (18 f/w). The layers of different fabric was interesting. They were thin paper like fabric by itself but if they are layered together, they create surface. Color combination of material was very harmonious.
Decide: I like to experiment and I think experiment is important. I used tomade small size of samples for my outcome. But this time I want to bigger the size and use multiple colors.
04/04/18 4D pairing
Materials : jelly powder, water, silicon mold, food coloring
Today, I did some experiments making jelly key inspired by my primary reserach image.
I saw a picture of Harrods building made of jelly and it was impressive.
Usually architecture is made of hard material like cement, metal, concrete.
But those jelly Harrods building was a good example of "subverting function".
I want to apply those idea to my project to give some wit(fun).
Also, baking was one of my interest too. So I didn't hesitate to do this experiment
It was quiet easy and succesful making jelly key than I expected.
I just have to pour this jelly powder to hot water and stir it well and pour it to the mold.
However, preservation was difficult.
This jelly key contains moisture and it dries when I leave it outside.
I need to put them in a poly bag which dosen't look asthetically good.
And the most problem was durability.
ex) candy, fabric, silicon, plastic
HR stands for 'H'a 'R'Rods.
I made some small pendant with baking tool.
I used clay for material and pressed letter like stamp.
Maybe I can use this pendent attached to my samples.
If it looks successful to my samples, I can apply this to garment that I make.
The small problem with whis clay pendent is 'cracking'.
I need to add enough water to prevent cracking when I make this pendent.
I found those pattern book by chance.
It caught my attetion because it saids " NO PATTERN NEEDED".
I was wonder how pattern books not have patterns.
I figure it out after I read few pages. It was mainly reforming the existing garments.
I think it is very clever way to do that because I can save time.
The important part of designing garment is idea developing rather than making garment like technicians.
The second book was "Sacai A to Z"
It is very helpful for styling tips and layering garments.
The detail of Sacai's garment was amazing.
It was like menswear details attached to womenswear. (trimming, cuffs, buttons, pokets)
The designs were harmonious and well balanced.
28/03/18 Daily drawing
I try to do daily (observation) drawing at least 30 min a day.
I went to cafe and I didn't bring anything so I borrowed a pen.
And above picture is a drawing from today. (spend about 40 min)
I did some research on my workflow with those drawing with my laptop.
If I haven't draw or write down my ideas I might have forgot it.
So, reporting (memo) is important. I always write down my reflection with my cell phone.
It is very convinient because I can write it down whenever and wherever.
I can just copy and paste my reflection in my iphone and send it later.
So most of my ideas are written down in my phone (every single detail).
26/03/18 - 27/03/18
What did you do throughout this week?
What did your peers comment?
They said my work looks like “Amigurumi”
Amigurumi is the Japanese art of knitting or crocheting small, stuffed yarn creatures. The word is a portmanteau of the Japanese words ami, meaning crocheted or knitted, and nuigurumi, meaning stuffed doll. In the west they are called amigurumi, which are the original phonetics of 編みぐるみ in Japanese language.
I think this is due to size and the technique (crochet) I used.
They recommend me to make it bigger (size) scale.
Also, to make my own tassel such as adding several tassels together.
How would you improve by then?
Make it bigger.
Draping on actual body
I need to see big picture, whole silhouette.
What are your plans?
Create a structural outcome.
Material: wire, toy filling, plenty of tassel
Buy some fabrics: felt, cotton, organza
How can you make better use of your studio time?
To make better use of my studio time, I should talk and give feedback to each other with my peers. Because it is very important thing to improve my work and I can get feedback from my classmate only during the studio time.
I think I don’t really want to use the studio much, as today would be the last day before Easter holiday, and after so, it would be the mock set up already. I feel like if I were to do experiments of the outcome during studio time, it would be too in a rush.
In order to make good use of the last week’s studio time, I think I need to plan well and do prepare everything in advance. Every time I do my sketchbook I need different material.
I personally like to work with various material and make textile sample first befor I do design develpment, so I need to bring as much as I can to school.
What do you intend to achieve today and the following holiday?
During the holiday, I want to visit as many exhibition as I can.
It has been very busy due to interview and school and now I have my spare time which is Easter holiday.
The exhibtion I want to go is Picasso, and Modigliani.
I want to spend this holiday full of cultural life.
There are a lot of movies that I want to see during my spare time, so as the books.
- (2018) Shape of the water
- (2018) Call me by your name
- Norwegian wood (La Ballade de l'impossible) by Murakami Haruki
Even though this films and books are not directly related to my project, It might help me to think broadly and inspires me somehow. Sometimes, research sources came from the field that I've never expected.
This Tate Modern exhibition on Modigliani showcases some of the most memorable art of the early twentieth century with his iconic elongated portraits.
My favorite painting was
"Amedeo Modigliani Nude 1917 Private Collection"
Skin color and back ground color goes really well together.
The whole atmosphere of paintings was calm and dark.
I think this is because of the colors he used. (greyish tone, deep red, dark brown)
I especiall like faces of Modigliani paintings.
They all have long nose, and face.
During his brief and turbulent life Modigliani developed a unique and instantly recognisable pictorial style. Though meeting little success during their time, his emotionally intense portraits and seductive nudes are now among the best-loved paintings of the 20th century.
Modigliani’s nudes are a highlight of the exhibition – with 12 nudes on display, this is the largest group ever reunited in the UK. These sensuous works proved controversial when they were first shown in 1917, leading police to censor his only ever solo exhibition on the grounds of indecency.
21/03/18 Self Evaluation question
During the tutorial time, one of my tutor said 'key' by itself can be the story telling. Key have story because they are purposely made to open something. In this aspect, It has very specific use and is practical. And they are made with pair with door handle (lock). On the other hand, if you lose it, you will be in trouble. You might have to shiver outside from cold because you cannot get in to your house.
So even if you don't know where is the key from and what to open, you can't just throw it away. Just keep and save it for later.
If I just see the 'key' without a lock,
I try to guess where this is from according to the shape. In korea, a lot of people don't use metal key nowadays. Most of them enter door with password by electric system. Since I move to UK, I started to use key for my room but it was uncomfortable at the first time. Now I'm now used to it but time consumed.
It was beyond expectation. There were a lot of works that I haven't seen before. Some of them were not popular or famous but still amazing. I want to extract some of the color combinations in his painting. Such as mint green with grey and purple, black and ivory, red and apricot.
His line drawing was one of my favorite. It is minimal and sophisticated. The lines were restrained. However, those lines gave me a comfortable feeling. I wanted to hang that painting in my bed room. Even though there was no color, the whole atmosphere still felt harmonious. "Less is more". For me, I am always maximalist and complicated person who want to be a mininalist. Subtraction is very hard for me. It is hard to choose one thing among many good things.
Many of picasso's paintings are abstract and somehow feels like childish. I heard that picasso was sick of drawing things looks exactly like their actual apperance.
About candy keys
edible, various color, sweet taste & smell, transparent, maintaining shape
fragile (broke too easily), hard to make pretty shape with out crust, hard to make same color
very sensitive to temperture
I quiet like the idea of making key with candy and it's apperance even if it is not perfect.
However, using this material for garment might not working due to temperature (melting) and durability (broken too easily).
For the substitute for candy, I will try silicon which is quiet similar with appearance.
I think silicon might cover (deal) with this problems that candy have.
Today I did some experiment with candy.
Last time, I made key with jelly but it was hard to preserve due to shrinking after the moisture dries.
I want to supplement this fault with changing the material to candy.
At first, I tried to melt candy with hot water ( heat in boiling water).
But I failed. It took so long to melt than I expected. Also, even if it was melted properly,
when I try to pour it to the mold, it didn't run down. I think it is due to "viscosity" of candy.
The viscosity of a fluid is a measure of its resistance to gradual deformation by shear stress or tensile stress. For liquids, it corresponds to the informal concept of "thickness"; for example, honey has higher viscosity than water.
The other reason is the temperature was not high enough to melt candy like water.
Boiled water cold down so fast so that is hard to maintain the high temperature.
So, I tried to melt it with fry pan.
I poured some candy to fry pan and gave some heat.
Candy started to melt and change the color. (caramelized)
Caramelization is the browning of sugar, a process used extensively in cooking for the resulting sweet nutty flavor and brown color. The brown colours are produced by three groups of polymers:
It is important not to leave it to long in fire because it is going to burn.
The color of candy gradually changes into white to dark brown.
I pour them to the mold and made some keys.
At first time the apperance wasn't pretty because of the crust around.
It was quiet hard to pour exact amont of candy into furrow.
After few tryouts I made satisfying candy key.
14/03/18 How to melt candy
A few tips to know before getting started
- Get to know your microwave- only heat your candy melts at 30-50% power, not any higher than that!
- Colored candy melts are very concentrated, you don’t need tons of colored disks to get a bright color. Add them to white candy melts to get the color you desire.
- Be very patient while warming your candy melts and plan for them to take about 20-40 minutes to be melted properly.
- You can easily get the candy melts too hot; they will get thicker and clumpier the hotter they get.
- It goes against everything we know about chocolate, but sometimes letting candy melts sit and cool will help more than stirring them.
- It is easier to melt more candy melts at once rather than less.
- Fresh candy melts seem to work better than candy melts that have been stored for a while (3+ months).
Place your candy melts in a microwave-safe bowl and heat in the microwave for 1 minute at 50% power.
Stir. They won’t look melted, but that is okay, stir anyway. Place back in Microwave for 30 seconds at 50% power.
Stir again. It will still be thick, but stir well for about a minute. Place back in the microwave for another 30 seconds at 50% power.
Stir again for about 1-2 minutes, then check the temperature on your candy melts. They should not be warmer than your body temperature. If they are warmer, just set down the bowl and let them sit for a few minutes to cool off. There still may be clumps, which is okay, just walk away and let it sit for a few minutes. I know it is hard to do, but it is best.
After a few minutes try stirring again and you will find the clumps are melting and it will be getting thinner.
If the candy melts are cooler than your body temperature place it back in the microwave for 20 seconds at 30% power. Stir, then check the temperature again. Repeat until you have nicely melted candy melts!
Sometimes candy melts do not cooperate the way we want them to. Rather than thinning out and becoming smooth, they clump or have “elephant skin” like the candy melts below.
Shortening to the rescue! If you find your candy melts are too thick, add a spoonful of shortening
The shortening will be clumpy at first, but once it is stirred in, let it sit for a few minutes. The warm candy melts will melt the shortening, which will in turn thin out the candy melts. It is a beautiful circle! If after about 5 minutes the clumps are still not gone, heat the candy melts in the microwave for another 20 seconds at 20% power.
Now you have thin and beautiful candy coating, just waiting to be turned into modeling chocolate or cake pops, or anything else you can imagine!
This are my collection of key samples.
For the keys in a fist line is made of silicon. I made it with hot melt stick (glue stick).
Second row is made of jelly. As you can see in the photo, it contains some moisture.
So that the paper below is absorbing the moisture from jelly key.
And the key is getting smaller due to shrinking over time.
Bottom part of the picture, you can see some candy keys.
The texture is sticky and they all have different color.
It is hard to make same color. It gradually became darker.
Also, If keep them on hot temperature it will melt.
10/03/18 Fabric Sample
Knitted door handle
This is a fabric sample that I made today.
The techniques that I used for making this is sewing, knitting, toy filling, quilting.
It is quiet interesing for me to have flexible door handle.
I want to use this for my room one day.
And after I finish making this, I found out that I didn't make key hole, or lock.
It is neccessory for real door handle.
I need to put more details next time and be more sharp in observation.
More over, I want to make a collection of fabric door handle.
Maybe I should do more design development for my samples.
(choosing shape, material, techniques, detail)
08/03/18 Reference & Bibliography
Harvard style Reference
Sacai : A to Z (2015) by Chitose Abe
Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams (2017) by Florence Muller
Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garcons (2017) by Andrew Bolton
No Patterns Needed: DIY Couture from Simple Shapes (2016) by Rosie Martin
Freehand Fashion: Learn to Sew the Perfect Wardrobe - No Patterns Required! (2015) by Chinelo Bally
Tate Modern (2018) Picasso. London
Tate Modern (2018) Modigliani. London
Places to visit
Historic department stores in London
Imperial War Museum
Victoria and Albert Museum
Grand Budapest Hotel (2014) Directed by Wes Anderson, Universal Pictures, 100mins [Video : VHS]
Marie Antoinette (1938) Directed by Wes Anderson, Universal Pictures, 149mins [Video : VHS]
“How to Applique” https://youtu.be/JOPxNNEv75w
“How to copy any key at home in under 10 minutes” https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z08VMebsyNE
“Dior Parque Du Bagatelle Haute Couture Show 1997”
“Comme des Garçons | Fall Winter 2018/2019 Full Fashion Show”
“How to Make Silicone Molds”
“Using Candy Melt with Silicone Molds”